The age-old debate over the relative merits of renting or buying a home rages on. It’s doubtful that a definitive settlement is on the horizon. There are simply too many variables at play and too many unique factors affecting individual homeowners’ situations.
But one thing is for sure: renting and homeownership both come with their fair share of costs. Even if it makes more financial sense for you and your family, you surely know that owning a home isn’t cheap. The U.S. Census Bureau reports that the median owner-occupied household pays $3,119 a year in real estate taxes, while the Bureau of Labor Statistics puts average annual spending on owned dwellings – mortgage interest, property taxes, insurance, and upkeep combined – at $9,310.
All told, the typical household puts a significant chunk of its take-home earnings – often 30% or more in expensive housing markets – toward recurring housing costs such as mortgage principal and interest, property taxes, private mortgage insurance, and homeowners insurance. Add in utilities, basic upkeep, and other recurring expenses, and the total cost of homeownership rises even further.
The good news is that homeownership costs aren’t fixed. If you’re willing and able to absorb their upfront costs, these home improvement projects will permanently reduce your recurring homeownership expenses. Others allow you to defer potentially costly repair projects – possibly forever, or at least until you’ve moved out of the house.
If you’re not sure that your budget can bear the upfront cost of these projects, know that state and utility incentives may help defray the cost of efficiency-enhancing projects. Others may be financed with a home equity line of credit from a company like Figure, and/or rehabilitation loans or unsecured personal loans from traditional banks, credit unions, and online lenders.
Cost-Effective Home Improvement Projects: Inside the House
These home improvement projects take side mostly or entirely inside the four walls of your house (or at least under the roof, if they involve attic work). They range from noninvasive, one-time jobs like home energy audits to more substantial but potentially more profitable upgrades to major home systems.
1. Do a Home Energy Audit or Professional Assessment
The best way to build and prioritize your list of cost-effective home improvement projects is to conduct a DIY home energy audit or get a professional home energy assessment.
Audits and assessments evaluate every major system and component of your home to identify where you’re wasting electricity, losing heat, and otherwise lagging in the efficiency department. Among many other things, auditors check:
- Drafts and air leaks emanating from windows, door frames, vents, outlets, and other imperfectly sealed places
- Insulation in the attic, walls, basement, and crawlspaces
- Mechanical appliances, such as furnaces, boilers, and water heaters
- Other appliances and electronics, including refrigerators, oven ranges, dishwashers, laundry machines, and televisions
- Lighting inside and outside the home
After your audit or assessment, your to-do list may include a host of cost-effective improvements, such as:
- Swapping out old, inefficient appliances for newer, more efficient ones
- Adding or replacing substandard insulation
- Patching drafts and leaks
- Replacing inefficient lighting
- Upgrading to smart home systems, such as smart lighting and smart thermostats
- Replacing windows, roofs, and other inefficient fixtures
- Other improvement projects listed below
The list could be long. Getting everything done within a few months, or even a few years, could be an overwhelming and prohibitively expensive effort. So you’ll want to prioritize based on expected return on investment as well as upfront cost if you’re not able to finance bigger projects at reasonable cost,
Cost and Time to Break Even
DIY audits carry negligible costs. Professional assessments can cost up to $600, but some utilities and state agencies offer free or reduced-cost assessments, often for $100 or less. The time needed to break even depends on what the audit reveals and the cost of each fix.
2. Swap Your Window AC for a Swamp Cooler
During the warm season throughout the United States – and nearly all year long in southerly states like Florida and Texas – air conditioning adds more than any other single factor to home electricity bills. Turning down the thermostat or exploring air conditioning alternatives can significantly reduce air conditioning bills, but often at the price of indoor comfort.
In areas with consistently dry summer weather, one of the best ways to combat sky-high AC bills is also one of the simplest: swapping the window unit for an evaporative cooler, also known as a swamp cooler. Unfortunately, since swamp coolers cool by evaporation, they don’t work well in humid climates, where the air is already saturated with moisture.
Depending on the model, smaller swamp coolers can be mounted in a window or placed on the floor. Both types are easy for able-bodied homeowners to place or install on their own. In larger homes, it’s more efficient to install a bigger outdoor unit that cools the entire house through its ducts.
Swamp coolers work by fanning warm, dry air over moistened pads, cooling the outflow by up to 40 degrees – just as a stiff breeze cools sweaty skin. This process works best during the warmest parts of the day and when the relative humidity is below 50% (ideally even lower).
Unlike central air conditioning systems, which recycle air on a closed loop, swamp coolers continually cycle fresh air through the house, providing much-needed ventilation. Since they blow moist air through the house, they also act as humidifiers.
According to the Department of Energy, swamp coolers cost about half as much to install as central air conditioners and use about one-quarter as much energy. They do require more maintenance, but most homeowners are capable of doing what’s needed themselves.
The catch is that swamp coolers really only work in the western United States, where persistent low humidity allows for efficient operation. In the eastern half of the country, window and central AC units make more sense. If you’re unsure about evaporative cooling’s potential in your area, refer to this swamp cooler buying guide from Sylvane.
Cost and Time to Break Even
Swamp cooler units cost $200 to more than $3,000, depending on cooler size and coverage. Homes larger than 1,500 square feet are likely to require more than one cooler for complete coverage. According to HomeAdvisor, central evaporative cooling systems cost $1,544 to $3,759 (with installation), or about $2,543 on average.
Some utilities offer generous rebates on evaporative coolers. For instance, Xcel Energy‘s Colorado subsidiary rebates $300 for a standard cooler, $675 for a “premium” system, and $1,200 for a multi-ducted premium system that cools the whole house – and the amount is the same whether the cooler is a first-time installation or a replacement.
Air conditioning accounts for 19% of the average home’s electricity use. Based on the average residential electricity bill of $142.26 per month, or $1,707.12 per year (per 2024 EIA data), that’s about $324 per year.
Assuming 75% energy savings, the typical homeowner can save around $243 per year by switching to evaporative cooling. Without utility rebates, the breakeven point is therefore less than 18 months on cheap portable units. It’s much longer (upwards of 10 years) on whole-house units that require professional installation.
But homeowners who require central evaporative cooling units are likely to live in larger homes in hotter climates and thus have higher average electricity bills. With higher absolute annual savings, they’re likely to hit the breakeven point faster.
3. Clean and Change Your Air Conditioner and/or Central HVAC System Filters
Cleaning and changing air conditioner and ducted HVAC system filters is well within the capabilities of most able-bodied homeowners. That’s good, because these are very much recurring tasks – more home maintenance than home improvement.
They’re also very much worth your time and effort. According to the Department of Energy, replacing an old, dirty filter with a clean filter can reduce air conditioning costs by 5% to 15%. If you have a whole-house ducted HVAC system that heats and cools, you could save a comparable percentage (and a higher absolute amount) year-round.
In central HVAC systems, the filter is generally located in the return duct, within easy reach of a vent, or in the air handler, where it’s accessed from a drawer or drop-in cavity. Accessing it may require removing the screws or fasteners that hold the vent plate in place. Larger systems can have multiple filters, so check your system’s specs to ensure you have them all covered. For safety, turn off the air handler before taking out any filters, especially if they’re contained within the handler itself.
Central HVAC filters come in several different types:
- Fiberglass filters, which resemble fine-mesh window screens, should be replaced every month during the cooling season, assuming heavy use during that time.
- Pleated filters, which resemble miniature quilts, need to be replaced every two to three months.
- Media filters, which are basically ultra-thick pleated filters, need to be replaced every six to eight months.
These lifespans can be extended somewhat with thorough, regular cleaning every two weeks. To clean each type of filter, take it outside and shake it off, then wipe it down with a damp cloth and allow it to air dry.
In window and wall units, the filter is located immediately behind the cool air vent, which faces into the room. To access, simply snap off the vent panel and remove the filter. Every month, wipe your units’ filters down with a damp cloth and dry thoroughly before replacing, as the filters usually sit close to electrical wires. During heavy operation, window units’ filters should be replaced at least every year – so, if your cooling season lasts for six months of the year, you can go two years between replacements.
Cost and Time to Break Even
There is no cost to clean filters and coils. Filters are generally inexpensive, with fiberglass and pleated options available for less than $10 apiece. Due to the low cost of the project, regular cleanings and filter changes pay for themselves as they’re completed.
4. Buy a Smart or Programmable Thermostat
Manually setting your thermostat to a less-than-comfortable reading can save big bucks. You just have to be okay with sweating it out in the summer and bundling up with sweaters and blankets in the winter. Programmable and smart thermostats can achieve similar results with much less discomfort.
Programmable thermostats let you divide your days into discrete blocks and set desired temperatures for each – for instance, higher settings when you wake up and return home from work, and lower settings overnight and during the workday. Smart thermostats, such as the Nest Learning Thermostat, go even further. They actually adjust to your household routines, temperature preferences, external weather conditions, and your location inside or outside the house (using your phone’s GPS).
According to HouseLogic, a programmable thermostat can save $200 or more per year, depending on baseline heating and cooling costs. According to Google, which sells Nests, the smart thermostat reduces heating costs by 12% and trims cooling costs by 15%. Provided you follow all instructions carefully, you can probably install a thermostat yourself in an hour or two. If you can’t, HomeAdvisor pegs the average thermostat installation cost at $114 to $265.
Cost and Time to Break Even
Basic programmable thermostats cost $20 to $100. Fancier models, which have more zones, finer-tuned programming options, and smartphone integration capabilities, cost up to $400. Smart thermostats cost $150 and up.
By HouseLogic’s reckoning, a basic programmable thermostat can pay for itself within a month, while a costlier model can take six months or longer. Smart thermostats take about a year to pay for themselves, depending on baseline climate control costs. With paid installation, the time to break even is longer.
5. Install Low-Flow Fixtures
In most places, water isn’t as expensive as electricity, but needless water use can certainly cut into your disposable income over time. Plus, in drought-prone areas, saving water is an excellent idea regardless of monetary price.
Water-conserving fixtures, such as low-flow toilets and shower heads, are cheaper and more reliable now than ever before. As your budget allows, swap out old, wasteful fixtures for modern, efficient alternatives.
According to the EPA, the investment pays for itself many times over. Toilets bearing the WaterSense label (basically the water equivalent of the ENERGY STAR rating) save the average family more than $170 per year and $3,400 over the lifetime of the toilets. (If you’re worried about performance, consider purchasing a dual-flush toilet, which flushes solid waste with twice as much water.)
Low-flow faucets reduce tap water usage by up to 30%. Low-flow shower heads can reduce shower volume by up to 70% without compromising pressure. They also reduce water heating demands by comparable ratios, cutting electricity or gas bills.
All told, low-flow fixtures reduce water usage by 25% to 60%, per the Department of Energy. According to the DOE, the average household spends $400 to $600 on hot water heating per year, so a 60% reduction equates to up to $360 in savings per year and $30 per month.
Cost and Time to Break Even
The cost of low-flow appliances varies widely. Low-flow toilets cost $200 and up. Low-flow shower heads cost anywhere from $10 to $50. Low-flow faucets cost anywhere from $10 to more than $100.
So in a typical home with two full bathrooms and one kitchen sink, a project to replace all fixtures with low-flow alternatives would cost at least $450. But it would still take less than a year to pay for itself after accounting for water and hot water heating savings.
6. Swap Out Wasteful Appliances for High-Efficiency Models
Home appliances and mechanical systems are becoming more efficient by the year. If your furnace, boiler, dishwasher, refrigerator, dryer, or washing machine is more than 10 to 15 years old, its late-model counterpart is virtually guaranteed to be more efficient.
For instance, ENERGY STAR certified front-loading washers use about 45% less energy and 50% less water than a top-load agitator washer. A standard-size ENERGY STAR certified dishwasher costs about $50 a year to run and saves roughly 5,800 gallons of water over its lifetime.
If you’re willing to venture outside your comfort zone, consider swapping old appliances or systems for fundamentally different alternatives.
According to Bob Vila, a hydronic radiant floor heating system costs up to 30% less to operate than a traditional forced-air system, though it can cost some 50% more to install. This Old House pegs the price at up to $20 per square foot if you already have a boiler.
Meanwhile, the Department of Energy says tankless water heaters can be up to 34% more efficient in households that use relatively little hot water. Tankless heating is up to 50% more efficient when installed at every hot water outlet in the house, though this significantly increases upfront costs and breakeven time.
Anyway you slice it, upgrading major home appliances has serious savings potential. By the Department of Energy’s own reckoning, the average household spends $400 to $600 just on water heating each year.
Cost and Time to Break Even
New washing machines cost anywhere from $400 to more than $1,500, and new clothes dryers cost anywhere from $300 to more than $1,500. New, full-size refrigerators cost anywhere from $500 to more than $2,500.
Small tankless water heaters cost $250 and up, while larger models can cost $600 and up. New radiant floor heating systems cost $5,000 and up, depending on house size. Generally, appliances or systems that directly heat water require professional installation, which can significantly increase their final costs.
Actual breakeven time varies considerably by project and appliance or system selection. For example, in high-demand households that spend $600 to heat water each year, a tankless heater that costs $500 and achieves 15% savings pays for itself in approximately five-and-a-half years.
7. Seal Leaky Windows and Doors
Old single-pane windows are up to 25% less efficient than new double-pane windows. Unfortunately, it’s expensive to upgrade. HomeAdvisor pegs the cost of new, double-hung windows at up to $650 apiece. Sliding windows cost even more – up to $800 apiece. At those prices, it can take many years to break even.
For a cheaper DIY fix, you can seal leaky windows (and doors) yourself. According to the Department of Energy, caulking old windows and doors improves their efficiency by 10% to 20%. This type of project is well within reach of the typical homeowner. Before starting, check out online video tutorials to familiarize yourself with the process.
Cost and Time to Break Even
It costs between $3 to $30 to caulk windows and weatherstrip doors, depending on the size of the job and materials used. ($30 worth of materials is enough to caulk several windows or weatherstrip two to three doors.) Lower-cost projects can pay for themselves within weeks, while costlier projects can take more than a year.
8. Insulate Hot Water Pipes
This is a straightforward DIY project that takes a few hours at most and can reduce your electricity or gas bill by a small but meaningful amount each year – up to $15 annually for the average household, according to the Department of Energy.
Common types of pipe insulation include foam pipe sleeves and fiberglass strips. Start by measuring the total length of pipe you wish to insulate and purchase enough material to finish the job. Then, measure out each discrete pipe segment (for example, from the water heater to the point where the pipe dives into the wall) and cut your insulation to size. Use duct tape, acrylic, or cable ties to secure each segment. Avoid placing insulation within six inches of a gas heater’s flue. When working with fiberglass insulation, wear skin, eye, and mouth protection.
Cost and Time to Break Even
Pipe insulation projects are inexpensive. The only significant cost is an average of $10 to $15 for materials, though possibly more for larger houses. At average cost, the breakeven time is approximately one year.
9. Install New, Efficient Windows and Doors
DIY window and door seals don’t always cut it – sometimes, you need to install brand-new windows and doors. Fortunately, installing high-efficiency windows and doors is regarded as one of the surest ways to increase your home’s resale value and build equity. If you’re planning to sell soon, this alone could offset your project’s cost.
Wood windows are charming, but unless you feel that they’re essential to preserve your home’s character, vinyl windows are more affordable – $300 to $800 apiece, versus $800 to $1,000 apiece for high-efficiency sliding windows. New doors cost even more – HomeAdvisor puts exterior door installation at $550 to $2,000.
If you’ve installed windows or doors before, you can probably do so again with help from a family member. However, improper installation can greatly compromise efficiency and cause other problems over time, so it may be worthwhile to pay a professional if you’re not particularly handy and/or don’t have several consecutive hours to devote to the project.
Cost and Time to Break Even
Given the high cost of efficient replacement windows, replacement projects can take at least five years to pay for themselves via energy savings, and often more like 10 or 12 years. However, if you’re planning to sell in the near future, high-efficiency windows can potentially offset their initial cost (and perhaps more) through higher resale value.
Efficiency incentives may reduce the total cost of your window and door installation project – but the federal tax credit is no longer one of them. The Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit, which covered up to the lesser of $600 or 30% of new window and skylight costs and up to $250 per exterior door ($500 total), was terminated by the One Big Beautiful Bill Act for property placed in service after December 31, 2025. If you installed qualifying windows or doors in 2025 or earlier, you can still claim the credit on that year’s return.
State and local tax credits and utility rebates may still be available in your area, and they can meaningfully reduce the net cost of the project. Check with your power utility and state/city revenue department for current rebates and credits in your neck of the woods.
10. Install a Garbage Disposal in Your Kitchen Sink
No matter how advanced your dishwashing skills, it’s impossible to completely avoid sending kitchen waste down the drain. Over time, food particles and other debris build up in your pipes, slowing and in some cases stopping your drains completely.
Left untreated, clogged drains can cause serious, costly problems, particularly in homes with older plumbing or septic systems. If an excavation is required to unclog or replace damaged piping or equipment, you’re immediately looking at thousands of dollars in costs not likely to be covered by homeowners insurance.
Garbage disposals aren’t foolproof, but they can definitely reduce the amount of solid waste in your drainage pipes. If you’re handy and no advanced electrical work is required, you can probably install a garbage disposal system on your own, provided you carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. However, if you’re not confident in your skills as a plumber, it’s probably worthwhile to hire someone for the job.
Cost and Time to Break Even
New garbage disposal systems cost $75 or more, depending on size and make. Professionally installed systems cost at least $150. More robust and durable systems can cost at least $200 without installation, and at least $300 with installation, depending on size and make.
Since installing a garbage disposal is a proactive move that can delay or even eliminate the eventual need for a costly plumbing intervention, it’s difficult to say how long the typical garbage disposal installation project takes to pay for itself. However, in older homes with shaky plumbing, it’s worth it both for the long-term financial savings and the short-term peace of mind.
Cost-Effective Home Improvement Projects – Outside the House
These home improvement and property beautification projects take place mostly or entirely outside the house. They involve exterior and roof upgrades as well as cost-effective landscaping and infrastructure upgrades.
11. Plant a Large Shade Tree (If You Don’t Have Solar Panels)
If your house is totally exposed to the sun, consider planting a shade tree or two near the structure. Over time, this reduces daytime heating and can trim your summer air conditioning bill, especially if you live in a hot climate with a long air conditioning season.
Look for species that grow quickly and achieve thick crowns when mature, such as maples, poplars, willows, and birches. Select a planting site that aligns with the summer sun’s peak angle – likely south-southwest of your house, depending on your latitude. If you’re unsure exactly where to place the tree or trees, walk around your neighborhood with a compass (or compass smartphone app) to measure large trees’ shade angles and coverage.
Fast-Growing-Trees has a good list of climate-appropriate options. If you live in a cold-winter climate, choose trees that lose their leaves in fall, as winter sun exposure can reduce your heating bills.
It probably goes without saying, but don’t bother planting a big tree near your house if you have a solar roof or plan to install one soon. The tree won’t save you anything near what your onsite generation will, especially if your utility allows net metering. Anyway, traditional solar panels provide some “natural” shade that can marginally reduce your cooling costs.
Cost and Time to Break Even
The cost of a new tree varies widely based on tree size and age. Older, taller trees cost more. Budget at least $50 for a five-foot tree, plus $20 more for optional supplies such as mulch, planting soil, and fertilizer.
Fast-Growing-Trees sells a five- to six-foot red maple for about $98 and a five- to six-foot river birch for about $111 (though these prices are subject to change by demand, seasonality, and selection). If your home is close to the street, you may be able to get a free street tree from your municipality. Ask your city’s public works department if they honor street tree requests.
This project’s time to break even depends on the tree’s position, growth rate, and mature size, which is why it’s important to look for trees that quickly grow to a large size. Once the tree overshadows the home, it should pay for itself within a year or two.
12. Invest in a Cool Roof
On hot, sunny days, your roof turns into a gigantic heating pad, roasting even the best-insulated attics and upper floors. Much of your AC’s effort is wasted in a futile fight against this simple thermodynamic effect.
A cool roof doesn’t actually cool your house, but it can dramatically reduce upper-floor heat gain. According to ENERGY STAR, citing Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, on a typical summer afternoon a clean white roof that reflects 80% of sunlight stays about 50 degrees cooler at the surface than a grey roof that reflects only 20%. That is a surface temperature, not the temperature inside your house – the EPA puts the indoor effect at 2.2 to 5.9 degrees in homes without air conditioning. Cool roofs save the most in hot, sunny climates and on buildings with little roof insulation, and they cost only about $0.20 more per square foot to install than conventional roofs.
Like any major roofing job, removing a traditional roof and installing a cool roof is best left to professionals, meaning you’ll have to budget for installation and material costs. In warm, sunny climates, including most of the southern United States, cool roofs are clearly cost-effective. In colder climates, cool roofs can take longer to pay for themselves, as their reflectivity limits passive solar heating in winter.
Cost and Time to Break Even
Cool roofs cost anywhere from $1 to $5 per square foot, depending on roof slope and material. That amounts to $1,000 to $5,000 for a 1,000-square-foot roof, not including installation.
According to Fixr, a shingled roof runs $4 to $18 per square foot installed, and labor alone accounts for roughly 60% of a roof replacement’s total cost. Labor rates vary widely by market and between individual contractors.
Fixr’s range therefore works out to roughly $4,000 to $18,000 for a 1,000-square-foot roof, materials and labor together. Because the reflective upgrade itself adds only pennies per square foot on top of that, the real question isn’t whether a cool roof pays for itself in isolation – it’s whether you need a new roof anyway. If you do, choosing a reflective product costs very little extra and starts trimming cooling bills immediately. If you don’t, reroofing purely to cut cooling costs rarely pencils out.
13. Set Up Clotheslines or Drying Racks
Depending on the make and model of your dryer and electricity or gas prices in your area, a typical load of laundry could cost anywhere from about 30 cents to more than $1 to dry wth an electric or gas dryer. That quickly adds up, especially if you have a big family.
What if you could greatly reduce this laundry expense, or even avoid it completely?
Though not as fast or as powerful as powered dryers, clotheslines and drying racks offer cost-effective solutions, especially for big families.
The simplest type of clothesline is a line-and-pulley system, which can be strung up from two existing points in your basement or yard (such as fence posts or even small trees). Because the rope needs to double back on itself for adjustability, your clothesline must be at least twice as long as the length between the two anchor points. Also, if placed outside, it must be made of material durable enough to withstand high winds and other hazards, and preferably not placed in areas that receive lots of windborne debris (such as dust and leaf particles).
If you’re space-challenged, an umbrella clothesline is probably a better option. To set up an umbrella clothesline, you need a digging implement (ideally a post digger, but a regular shovel will suffice in a pinch), a PVC pipe to hold the base of the clothesline’s pole, quick-set concrete mix, and an umbrella clothesline kit. As long as you’re comfortable working with small amounts of concrete, this is a fine DIY project.
Hanging technique varies, but you generally need at least two clothespins for larger clothing items, such as shirts, pants, and dresses. Smaller items, such as socks and underwear, typically need just one clothespin. If your line is exposed to the wind, you may need additional pins for added security.
Depending on weather conditions, clothes need anywhere from a few hours to a full day to fully line dry. In arid climates, drying outdoors during the day is probably the most efficient approach. In more humid climates and during the winter, drying inside (perhaps in a basement with a dehumidifier running) is preferable. Clothes dry quickly in direct sunlight, but repeated sun exposure can lead to bleaching, so use a shaded area if at all possible.
Cost and Time to Break Even
Basic line-and-pulley clotheslines cost $25 and up. Small umbrella systems cost $75 and up, but larger systems can exceed $100.
The time needed to break even varies widely based on laundry needs. Users who replace 10 dryer loads per month save anywhere from $3 to $10 per month, or $36 to $120 per year. At those rates, line-and-pulley systems pay for themselves within a few months to a year at most, while umbrella systems pay for themselves within three years.
14. Set Up a Rainwater Harvesting System
If you live in a dry region or have a garden that requires supplemental watering, a rainwater collection and storage system can trim your home water bills. The simplest collection systems are known as rain barrels – literally, barrels (usually 55 gallons) that collect water as it runs off your roof and into your gutters.
Commercial rain barrels cost at least $50, but it’s possible to repurpose old, sealed barrels for much less. You could use old soda syrup barrels, wine barrels, or really any sturdy vessel with ample capacity.
You might not have to pay anything at all. Some towns and cities, especially in drought-prone areas, distribute rain barrels at reduced or no cost (ask your city’s public works department or water authority for information).
On the other side of the cost spectrum, more complicated systems with below-ground cisterns and pumps can cost hundreds or thousands of dollars. However, these may have enough capacity to replace some or all of your indoor water as well, a plus if your utility water is expensive or you have a dicey groundwater situation.
Able-bodied homeowners can easily install rain barrels without professional help. Lowe’s has a good primer on the process. In addition to the barrel itself, consider buying a soaker hose leading to your garden or a pump to channel excess water into an auxiliary storage tank. These add-ons can prevent overflow and water loss during heavy downpours.
Cost and Time to Break Even
Commercial rain barrels cost at least $50, but it’s possible to find improvised barrels for much less (and possibly free). To distribute the water, soaker hoses cost $10 and up; small water pumps cost at least $25. Larger pumps can be several times as expensive – $100 and up.
The time it takes for a rainwater harvesting system to pay for itself depends on its upfront cost, the amount of water it’s able to save, and the local price of water. On a system that saves 4,000 gallons annually at a per-gallon price of $0.003, a rainwater harvesting system saves $12 per year, paying for itself in less than seven years (assuming material costs on the low end). Systems that save more water can pay for themselves more quickly.
15. Switch to Native or Climate-Appropriate Landscaping
For increased water savings, consider switching to climate-appropriate or native landscaping, which can further reduce or totally eliminate your supplemental watering needs.
These types of landscaping are especially useful and cost-effective in arid or drought-prone areas, where “traditional,” water-intensive landscaping options such as turf lawns are not sustainable without lots of supplemental water. Native landscapes incorporate only plants that exist in the region’s natural environments, while climate-appropriate landscapes incorporate plants that hail from similar climates around the world.
Native or climate-appropriate landscaping necessarily varies by location. In very dry climates, xeriscapes – desert landscapes – incorporate rocks, succulents, and super-hardy grasses. In areas with moderate precipitation or well-defined wet and dry seasons, grasses and drought-tolerant shrubs dominate.
Before tearing up your lawn, check with local landscaping professionals or consult your state university’s agricultural department for appropriate plants. For instance, the University of Minnesota’s Plant Elements of Design Database is a comprehensive, searchable resource with information about plants that can tolerate harsh winters and/or are native to the upper Midwest..
Cost and Time to Break Even
Native landscaping costs vary widely based on plant selection and labor costs. According to LawnLove, installation can cost anywhere from $2,250 to $8,500 for a 500-square-foot plot. If you have a big yard, you may need to do the work yourself or schedule partial professional installations in successive years to keep costs manageable.
The time to break even depends on watering needs. A 500-square-foot native landscape that saves 50,000 gallons per year at an average cost of $0.003 per gallon would take approximately 15 years to pay for itself at the low end of the cost scale.
However, in drought-prone areas, nonnative landscapes can use significantly more than 50,000 gallons of supplemental water per year, so the savings can be much greater. The average Californian home uses something like 70,000 gallons of water for traditional landscaping each year. Homeowners with large properties and water-hungry landscaping likely use much more.
16. Periodically Stain and Seal Wood Decks and Siding
Staining and sealing wood isn’t anyone’s idea of a good time. However, doing so regularly can greatly increase the lifespan of your home’s natural outdoor wood and stave off costly replacement projects. According to HGTV, building an average-sized wood deck costs about $17,615 and a composite one about $24,206, depending on location and materials – a fair proxy for what replacing yours would run. HomeAdvisor pegs the cost of whole-house cedar siding replacement at $16,500 to $29,500, depending on the size of the house and labor costs.
By contrast, a one-gallon can of waterproof stain, usually enough to cover 250 to 400 square feet, sets you back $40 to $60, at most. Wood siding generally needs a fresh coat every three to five years. Decks need to be coated every two to three years, though heavily used decks in wet, sunny, or cold climates may require annual applications.
To properly stain a deck or siding, you need a tarp, brush, roller, rags, and a bucket to hold the liquid you’re working with. Before buying your supplies, measure the space and research your wood types to ensure you’re using the proper product.
Cost and Time to Break Even
A one-gallon can of waterproof stain, covering 250 to 400 square feet, typically costs $40 to $60. Budget at least $20 and up for additional supplies, depending what you already have on hand.
So to cover a 100-square-foot deck and 1,000 square feet of siding, you can expect to spend up to $400 per application. However, that’s far less than the cost of replacing your outdoor wood.
Easy Fixes and Quick Tips
You don’t need to be handy or have loads of extra time to follow these quick, money-saving tips. Each can be done in your spare time or incorporated into your regular routine.
1. Use Lint and Hair Catches in Shower and Laundry Drains
Over time, lint from your laundry appliances and hair from your shower drain can do serious damage to your home’s drainage system, particularly if you have an older home with well-used plumbing. You can stave off or eliminate this risk with catches, which trap lint, hair, and other fibrous debris that can clog your drain.
Catches come in a dizzying array of configurations. Shower drain catches generally mold to the shape of your drain, under the stopper, while lint catches resemble mesh socks that fit over your washing machine’s outlet hose. Bathroom and kitchen sink catches generally resemble fine mesh screens that mold to the drains’ shape. Shower and sink catches can last for years with monthly cleaning, but lint catches generally need to be replaced every month or two.
Cost: Lint catches usually cost less than $3 for a two-pack; shower drain catches typically cost $5 to $15; sink catches typically cost less than $10
2. Close Doors to Seldom-Used Rooms and Closets on Exterior Walls
Unless you’re extremely efficient, you likely don’t use all of your home’s livable square footage – or even close to it. Little-used rooms, such as spare bedrooms, can run up your heating and cooling costs with little to show for it.
To a lesser degree, so can closets along exterior walls, which have more direct exposure to the outdoors. Reduce the strain on your heating and cooling systems – and your bottom line – by closing doors to extra rooms and exterior-wall closets whenever they’re not in use. Of course, if your home is too big for your needs, you’ll save a lot more in the long term by downsizing.
Cost: Free
3. Power Off and Unplug Idle Electronics
Even when they’re turned off, idle TVs, cable boxes, computers, and other small electronics continue to drain power and drive up your electricity bill. Get in the habit of unplugging your electronics after turning them off, or use a smart power strip, such as a Bits Energy Saving Smart Strip, to cut off power to your devices without physically unplugging them.
Cost: Free to unplug; $30 to $50 for a smart strip.
4. Switch to Efficient Light Bulbs
Every time an old incandescent or CFL bulb burns out, replace it with a more efficient LED light bulb. For maximum cost-effectiveness, purchase a bulk supply (six- or 12-packs, if possible) in advance.
Cost: LEDs cost anywhere from $2 to $10 per bulb, depending on manufacturer, type, and whether they’re purchased in bulk;* smart bulbs cost more*
5. Try a Shower Timer
Even with a low-flow shower head, a “dumb” shower timer can help you conserve water further by essentially guilting you into cutting your showers short. Most are equipped with alarms that go off after a set period of time, which you can set yourself. Some also come with measuring bags that you can use to measure the exact flow rate of your shower.
“Smart” shower timers automatically reduce the flow, and then shut off completely, at preset intervals. If that’s too drastic for you, stick with a dumb timer until you’re really ready to make the switch.
Cost: $5 and up for dumb timers; $100 and up for smart timers
6. Service Your Heating Equipment Regularly
It doesn’t feel great to pay an HVAC specialist to tell you there’s basically nothing wrong with your furnace or boiler, but it’s better than the alternative: paying them a lot more to fix a serious problem, or paying a fortune to bring them out in an emergency.
Virtually every HVAC company and independent professional offers basic tune-up service for furnaces and boilers, so pricing is competitive. Some offer monthly subscription plans that include discounted service calls and one or two free tune-ups a year. Call around or look online to get a sense of what you can expect to pay and what you’ll receive in return.
Cost: Basic tune-ups, which include part cleaning and lubrication, filter cleaning and changes, pilot and burner adjustments, and combustion efficiency tests, typically cost $100 to $200, but may be cheaper or free as part of a larger service package or if major repairs are required
7. Cancel and Replace Your Landline Phone Service
The vast majority of the U.S. population has reliable cell phone coverage at this point. Even if you don’t have good cell service at your house, you can replace your landline with a VoIP system such as MagicJack, which costs a fraction of a legacy landline plan. It requires high-speed Internet service from a local utility.
VoIP systems are generally plug-and-play, meaning you can install and configure them without technical expertise in an afternoon. However, it’s best to keep a cell phone plan in reserve, possibly at a lower price point, to avoid total loss of phone service in case of a weather-related Internet outage.
Cost: MagicJack costs less than $50 to set up and $50 per year for unlimited domestic calling thereafter
Will These Projects Raise Your Property Taxes?
It’s a fair question for an article full of home improvements, and the answer is usually no – though for a reason most homeowners get wrong.
Assessors generally reassess when you add something, not when you replace something, and copies of building permits are routinely forwarded to the assessor’s office. California’s Board of Equalization puts the rule plainly: absent an applicable exclusion, completing new construction triggers a reassessment. But its own list of what does not count as new construction includes replacing central heating and cooling systems, swapping wood-framed windows for energy-efficient metal or aluminum ones, and replacing a shake roof with a tile one – all treated as routine maintenance. Most of the projects above sit on that side of the line. What draws an assessment is adding something genuinely new: a deck, a patio, a pool, or upgraded plumbing or electrical capacity.
Rules vary by state, and one common assumption is worth correcting: what reliably earns explicit property tax protection is solar, not efficiency. Most states exempt the added value of a solar array outright, and California requires no form to claim it. Only a handful of states extend that treatment to windows, insulation, or HVAC, and where they do you generally have to apply – Arizona treats qualifying efficiency components as adding no value, but only if you send the assessor documentation before its deadline. Check your own state’s rules rather than assuming either way. And if an improvement does push your assessment higher than it should be, you can appeal – on your own, or through a service like Ownwell, which handles the filing and the hearing and charges only if your bill comes down.
Final Word
You don’t have unlimited time and funds. However, you can stretch your finances and bandwidth a bit further with a compromise approach to home improvement – “buy it yourself,” or BIY.
A BIY project finds you purchasing the materials, and possibly tools, necessary to complete the job, generally in close consultation with your contractor. The contractor then completes the job as usual, charging only for labor and incidental expenses. In other words, you get the materials at cost, avoiding the contractor’s inevitable markup, and save a boatload of time to boot.
According to HouseLogic, the BIY approach can reduce the total cost of a major project by 20%. On a tight personal budget, that’s not exactly chump change.
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